—
Here’s something most beginning gardeners don’t know: you’re supposed to bury tomato stems.
Like, a LOT.
This isn’t a typo or bad advice. Tomatoes have a superpower that most plants don’t have—they can grow roots along any part of their stem that’s buried underground. And more roots = stronger, healthier, more productive plants.
Let me blow your mind and explain how to plant tomatoes deeper than you ever thought possible.
## The Short Answer
Plant tomatoes deep—up to their first set of true leaves, or even their first flowers.
Yes, really. Remove the lower leaves and bury most of the stem underground.
## Why Plant Tomatoes Deep?
Tomatoes (unlike most plants) grow adventitious roots from their stems. Bury the stem, and it’ll sprout roots all along the buried portion.
Benefits of a deeper root system:
– Stronger plants: More roots = better stability
– More drought-tolerant: Deep roots access water farther down
– Better nutrient uptake: More roots = more surface area for absorption
– Sturdier stems: Plants can support heavy fruit loads
– Faster growth: Strong root systems support vigorous top growth
Basically, deep planting creates tomato superheroes.
## How Deep Is Too Deep?
Minimum: Bury at least 3-4 inches of stem
Better: Bury up to the first set of true leaves
Max: Leave at least 4-6 leaves above ground (plant needs leaves for photosynthesis)
Leggy seedlings: If your seedlings are super tall and spindly (leggy), deep planting is your saving grace. Bury most of that leggy stem and you’ve fixed the problem.
Compact seedlings: Even short, stocky seedlings benefit from deep planting. Bury as much stem as you reasonably can.
## How to Plant Tomatoes Deep: Step-by-Step
### Method 1: The Straight-Down Method
Best for: Transplanting from small pots, average-height seedlings
Step 1: Prepare the plant
Remove all leaves on the lower 2/3 of the stem. Leave only the top cluster of leaves. Don’t worry—you’re not hurting the plant.
Step 2: Dig a deep hole
Dig a hole 8-12 inches deep (deeper than you’d dig for any other plant). Wider than the root ball.
Step 3: Amend the soil (optional but recommended)
Mix compost, bone meal, or tomato fertilizer into the bottom of the hole.
Step 4: Plant deep
Place the root ball at the bottom of the hole. The buried stem should be underground, with only the top leafy portion above soil level.
Step 5: Fill and firm
Fill the hole with soil, firming gently as you go to eliminate air pockets.
Step 6: Water thoroughly
Water deeply to settle the soil and help roots establish.
### Method 2: The Trench Method (For Leggy Plants)
Best for: Super leggy seedlings, very tall transplants
Step 1: Prepare the plant
Remove all leaves from the lower portion of the stem, leaving only the top 6-8 inches with leaves.
Step 2: Dig a shallow trench
Instead of digging down, dig a shallow trench 4-6 inches deep and as long as your plant is tall (minus the leafy top).
Step 3: Lay the plant sideways
Gently lay the root ball and stem horizontally in the trench. Bend the top leafy portion upward so it sticks out of the soil.
Step 4: Bury the stem
Cover the stem (and root ball) with soil, leaving only the leafy top exposed above ground.
Step 5: Stake carefully
Support the upward-bent stem with a stake. The plant will straighten and grow upward naturally.
Bonus: This method is excellent in cool climates because roots stay in warmer upper soil layers.
## What About Root Balls?
When you plant deep, you’re burying the original root ball plus a lot of stem. That’s fine! The original roots will continue growing, and new roots will sprout from the buried stem.
Don’t worry about disturbing the root ball. Tomatoes are tough and handle root disturbance well (unlike, say, cucumbers).
## Planting Depth for Different Situations
### Seedlings Started Indoors (4-8 inches tall)
Remove lower leaves. Bury up to the first set of remaining leaves.
### Leggy Seedlings (10+ inches tall, thin stems)
Use the trench method. Bury most of the stem.
### Store-Bought Transplants (Usually 6-12 inches tall)
Remove lower leaves and branches. Bury to first remaining branches or leaves.
### Determinate vs. Indeterminate Varieties
Both benefit equally from deep planting. Plant them deep!
### Container Planting
Same rule applies! Use a deep container (minimum 12-16 inches) and bury the stem. This is why bigger containers are better—they allow for deep planting.
## Common Questions
Q: Won’t burying the stem rot it?
A: Nope! As long as soil drains well, the stem develops roots, not rot. Tomato stems are designed for this.
Q: How long does it take for new roots to form?
A: Within 1-2 weeks, you’ll have new roots sprouting from the buried stem.
Q: Can I bury the stem if the plant already has flowers?
A: Yes! It’s fine to bury stems with flowers (though some gardeners pinch off early flowers anyway to encourage root establishment). The plant will be fine.
Q: What if I already planted shallow? Can I fix it?
A: Partially. You can carefully dig up the plant and replant deeper (do this early, within the first week or two of planting). Or mound soil around the base of the stem—it’ll develop roots in the mounded soil.
Q: Does this work for other plants?
A: Nope! This is a tomato superpower (and works for some related plants like peppers, but not as effectively). Don’t bury cucumber or squash stems—they’ll rot.
## Mistakes to Avoid
Mistake #1: Leaving leaves buried
Always remove leaves before burying. Buried leaves rot and can introduce disease.
Mistake #2: Planting in poorly draining soil
If your soil doesn’t drain well, buried stems CAN rot. Fix drainage first (add compost, perlite, or sand).
Mistake #3: Not burying enough
If you’re going to do this, commit! Burying just an inch or two doesn’t give you the full benefit.
Mistake #4: Burying too much
Leave at least 4-6 leaves above ground. Plants need leaves for energy!
Mistake #5: Not watering after planting
Water thoroughly after deep planting to eliminate air pockets and help roots establish.
## Deep Planting + Other Best Practices
Deep planting works best when combined with:
– Quality soil: Well-draining, amended with compost
– Proper spacing: Don’t overcrowd (18-24 inches for determinates, 24-36 inches for indeterminates)
– Adequate water: Consistent moisture, especially during establishment
– Support structures: Stakes or cages installed at planting time
– Mulch: 2-3 inches to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature
## Real-World Results
I’ve done side-by-side comparisons: tomatoes planted shallow vs. deep.
Deep-planted tomatoes:
– Established faster
– Grew more vigorously
– Handled drought better
– Supported heavier fruit loads without falling over
– Produced 20-30% more fruit
Shallow-planted tomatoes:
– Required more watering
– Toppled over more easily (even with staking)
– Struggled during heat waves
– Smaller overall yields
Deep planting isn’t just a “nice-to-have.” It’s a game-changer.
## Special Situations
Transplanting from small pots to larger pots (before going outside):
Pot up deeply each time! This builds a stronger root system before the plant even goes outside.
Grafted tomatoes:
DO NOT bury the graft union (the bump/scar where the two varieties were joined). Bury stem below the graft, but keep the graft above soil level.
Suckers rooted in water:
Treat these like any other transplant—bury as much stem as possible.
## The Bottom Line
If you take away ONE thing from this entire blog, let it be this:
Bury your tomato stems deep.
This single technique will give you stronger, healthier, more productive plants. It compensates for leggy seedlings, creates massive root systems, and sets your tomatoes up for success.
It feels wrong at first—like you’re killing the plant by burying it. You’re not. You’re giving it superpowers.
Try it this year. Plant one tomato shallow and one deep, just to see the difference. I guarantee you’ll be a deep-planting convert.
And next year when someone asks for your secret to amazing tomatoes, you can smile mysteriously and say: “I bury my secrets deep.” 🍅
